My favorite segments are at 3:44, 5:00, and 9:42. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is another 50 Classic North American Climb located in Boston Basin of the North Cascades. There was also one party coming down from Quien Sabe Glacier in the dark. Originally we were going to climb Forbidden in 2019 with Black Peak's NE Ridge and Poster Peak's Blue Buttress as practice, but fear of the Catscratch Gully postponed it a year. Forbidden Peak Climb. At night, I saw headlamps on the north ridge of Forbidden Peak. This is a strenuous climb in an incredible setting! Photo: John. Its pyramid shape, surrounding glaciers and solid rock make Forbidden Peak a difficult summit to attain. Snow is getting soft so wake up VERY early to profit any overnight crustiness, or else you may wallow and curse. Kyle on the Forbidden Glacier. Then I quickly prepare the camera for photos. They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. A Peaceful Morning. This experience offers extensive glacier travel over 3 glaciers and a rocky ridge traverse to the top of Forbidden Peak. And we got hit with smoke, which had … Continue reading Forbidden Peak via North Ridge Day 2 → This is a very esthetic route combining an ice climb with the enjoyable rock of the upper North Ridge. In the morning, I awoke to the sounds of birds chirping before sunrise. Forbidden Peak, North Ridge (via NW Face variation) 2018, sitting on the summit of Forbidden having just climbed the classic West Ridge, Jere and I watched a team make their way up the North Ridge. The West Ridge of Forbidden is included amongst the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Forbidden dreams. After a half day approach into Boston Basin the route climbs a perennial snow field before ascending a moderate gully to one of the most spectacular ridge climbs you can imagine. Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge ranks among one of the most pure ridges in the Cascades. Join a certified mountain guide for this challenging yet rewarding three-day mountaineering ascent of Forbidden Peak in North Cascade National Park. No single move is terribly difficult but the combined volume of technical alpine rock and glaciers make this a challenging but attainable undertaking. The route involves a technical ascent to the ridge crest via steep snow or moderate rock, followed by wild and exposed ridge climbing to the summit. Forbidden Peak is an 8,815 feet (2,687 m) glacial horn located in North Cascades National Park, in Skagit County of Washington state. CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS. The route is mostly 3rd and 4th class scrambling with lots and lots of … Prologue. The Torment-Forbidden Traverse (Grade IV, 5.7) is a challenging and much sought-after route, in part because it ends with an ascent of the famous West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Temperatures dropped overnight, but I stayed toasty in my merino layer and Feathered Friends Nano Swallow bag. The rock knocked him off his stance, he fell about 300 feet and died. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is one of the “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America” and is considered Grade II, YDS 5.6. Forbidden Peak lies in the heart of the North Cascades and is … The increased solitude, the variety of terrain, and the overall burliness of the ridge just had me impressed. Forbidden Peak/Northwest Face of North Ridge. A strenuous approach, climbing up and over a col, tough glacier travel and a rock ridge leading to the summit. Climb West Ridge of Forbidden Peak With Alpine Ascents FOR SUMMER 2021, AS PART OF COVID-19 REGULATIONS: Climbers will need to self drive until further notice. Forbidden Peak is one of the better-known peaks in North Cascade National Park. The “TFT” dominates the skyline above Boston Basin, offering every element of a classic, technical, alpine traverse: iconic and aesthetic summits, a high level of commitment, and fun, engaging climbing. North Ridge of Forbidden Peak: Of the three climbs we routinely do on Forbidden Peak, the North Ridge is our favorite. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is an exhilarating alpine adventure deep within the heart of North Cascades National Park. Climbing Forbidden Peak via any route is a quintessentially North Cascadian Experience. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. It is part of the North Cascades and is located near Cascade Pass.Forbidden Peak features a rock climbing route named West Ridge route which is featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. This is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. I just got back from a climb of Forbidden Peaks north ridge with Mountain Madness. Forbidden Peak – East Ridge Direct (5.8) “Well-seasoned Cascade climbers consider Forbidden’s East Ridge route among the finest arêtes of its kind in the western states. John and I tried to climb Forbidden Peak last year with a camp in Boston Basin, but weather forced us to bail. All of the routes to the summit of Forbidden require technical climbing. From Boston Basin, ascend scree slopes and gullies, aiming for the snowfield and the obvious West Ridge Couloir. Ascend the snowfield to the base of the West Ridge Couloir. Hence, the North Ridge had been on my radar for nearly two years before the temptation became irresistible. The North Cascades are a climber’s playground. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a classic route in the North Cascades. At Grade III 5.6-5.7, this is an ice or steep snow climb for those with some experience. From a The sweeping ridge connecting Mount Torment (8,120 feet) and Forbidden Peak (8,815 feet) forms the crenellated crown of Boston Basin, a pocket of talus and paintbrush-specked meadow tucked within the southwest edge of North Cascades National Park. The quintessential alpine route, the North Ridge of Forbidden offers everything an alpine climber dreams of! The West Ridge of Forbidden is a fantastic alpine objective that requires multiple skills including rock-climbing, glacier travel, moderate snow, route-finding, fitness, efficiency, downclimbing, rappelling swiftly, and simul-climbing if attempting a one-day ascent. The views to Moraine Lake and Eldorado Peak are awe inspiring and the view down the spine of Klawatti Peak is as rugged as ever. Prepare for the ascent on the snow slopes and rock faces in beautiful Boston Basin of the North Cascades. A low fifth-class rock scramble along a beautifully exposed ridgeline, it combines alpinism with … Trip: Forbidden Peak - North Ridge Date: 7/1/2007 Trip Report: Boston Glacier is well filled in, many snow bridges and easy route finding. John and I climbed the ultra-classic West Ridge of Forbidden Peak in a day on August 4th, 2018. Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge — A Photo Essay Most North Cascades adventures start here.…brush and slider alder! The BD Light Saber bivvy bag made for posh accommodations. The Route. July 2020. Forbidden North Ridge Route: Advanced, Grade III, Class 5.6, and Moderate Snow/Glacier Travel This is an adventurous route up a Cascade classic. The West Ridge. I came along as the ministry of bad humor. Forbidden Peak: West Ridge. Marcus was in town for a little Cascades fix, and Phil was ready to be his dealer. Forbidden Peak North Ridge Climb with Mountain Madness. Finishing an unexpectedly solid boulder problem to get on the North Ridge. Julia and I had scouted Forbidden on a trip to Sahale in July and decided to make a … At 8,815 feet it is not the tallest peak in the range, but the quality of climbing and the beauty of the peak make it one of the best. The phenomenal route finishes on the classic West Ridge of Forbidden Peak and, from the summit, the two other prominent and classic ridges of Forbidden are in plain view. This past summer I was supposed to take a shot at climbing Gasherbrum 2 in the Karakorum. Forbidden Peak - North Ridge August 7-8th, 2004. FORBIDDEN PEAK 8815Ft / 2686M WEST RIDGE-III 5.6 Forbidden is one of the 50-classic climbs in North America and for all the right reasons. Hope everyone enjoys! For those who want to see all the footage I shot that day, about 2 hours of our 14 hour day, here it is. Leave a comment. See more trip photos here. These photos chronicle a quick trip into the heart of the North Cascades National Park and a climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, 8815ft, III, 5.6 — one of Steck and Roper’s “ 50 Classic Climbs of North America.” In the end that didn't really make a difference. This seldom climbed route is one of the best that the North Cascades has to offer. Forbidden Peak is a striking peak, both intimidating and beautiful. I have been wanting to climb this ridge for over 10 years and after looking down it after my west ridge climb a few weeks ago it … Me on the approach. The wind shifted from Westerly to Easterly, perhaps driven by katabatic effect from the Quien Sabe, but it was gentle. Looking up at the route. Ascend a steep trail to a camp in Boston Basin. Adorned with gendarmes, spikes, and gaps, the crest divides the steep and smooth slabs of the south face from the northern precipice and the crevassed Boston Glacier. Climb the Forbidden Peak (2,687m) West Ridge in the North Cascades National Park, 3 days. The day’s climb, condensed to 13 minutes. Highlights include knife edge traverses, and short steps of rock up to 5.6. Climbing Forbidden Peak has been something Josh has always wanted to do. Who: Josh Lewis and I What: Climb of Forbidden Peak West Ridge When: September 20-21, 2012 Why: For a fantastic classic alpine climb! On the afternoon of September 14, Tyler Barton, a 31-year-old man from Seattle was struck by a falling rock while descending from the West Ridge (III 5.5) of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades of Washington. Obviously, those … Forbidden Peak via North Ridge Day 3 Cascades • September 5. My first trip report! Day One. You're now on the famous West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, one of the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. Forbidden Peak's West Ridge is an unforgettable alpine climb and one of America's most sought-after ascents. All its classic ridge routes - the famous West Ridge, the East Ridge, or the lonely North Ridge - are well worth the effort and provide an unforgettable experience in a stunning setting. Climb through snow and ice as well as over gneiss in order to conquer this classic North American peak. Check out the reflection of Eldorado Peak in Moraine Lake! It also marks the final objective challenge of the infamous Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Photo: Kyle Kyle negotiating some especially poor rock (with the consistency of potato chips) to gain the crest of the North Ridge. Eroded on all sides by glaciers, it has three steep faces and kinfe-edge ridges, all leading to a lofty summit that stands as one of the highest in the entire North Cascades. Often touted as the best alpine rock route in the North Cascades, the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak features high quality rock climbing on a beautifully positioned ridge overlooking steep alpine faces, enormous glaciers, and aqua-blue lakes. Forbidden Peak West Ridge Intermediate Summit Climb Located in a vigorous alpine setting in the heart of the North Cascade National Park, an ascent of 8,815 foot Forbidden Peak offers excellent views of the surrounding peaks and the massive Boston Glacier and is one of the most classic climbs in the park. From here you will be able to see the entire West Ridge and take in the experience that is the North Cascades. 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